Craig ‘Andy’ Beardslee with the Venison Meatloaf (charred tomato and demiglace) along with the black skillet cornbread, smoked Wisconsin cheddar mac and cheese and the acorn squash with bacon maple butter. (Photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

The Tractor Room, which opened a little over a year ago, is the latest restaurant in what will likely become a long string of restaurants by Johnny Rivera and Andy Beardslee. Rivera and Beardslee opened the much loved iconic Hash House a Go Go in Hillcrest in 2000, followed by a Las Vegas version of the Hash House in 2005. Billed as a place for “Honest Cocktails and Meats,” the Tractor Room does indeed deliver.

Rivera and Beardslee took over the former Rice Jones space — it was sad to see that one go — and transformed it into what is best described as a cross between a hunting lodge and an old-time steak house. Red velvet is draped everywhere and black leather booths are set against dark walls garnished with an assortment of taxidermy and what is best described as a mishmash of “odds-n-ends.”

The feel of the room is masculine and so too must your appetite be, for this is not a restaurant for little ladies or light eaters. This is a place to, as my friend John Schuldt used to say, “hang on the feed bag.”

I found it udderly delightful.

The menu features a creative selection of dishes served in the same style (rustic preparations – large portions) for which the Hash House is famous. Appetizers like “House Made Potato Chips” ($5) and “Skillet Cornbread” ($4) will woo you in, and items like the “Criss Cross Fries with Cheddar Cheese” ($12) and the “Wild Boar and Mashed Potato Spring Roll ($11) will be your demise.

Don’t do what I did and order a whole boatload of appetizers or you’ll never make it to your entrée. Unless of course, you exercise excellent self-control, which I do not.

A couple of salads — “Hearts of Romaine” and “Baby Bibb” — are well done and perfect for sharing, but save your mojo for your entrée as they are not only big in the belt, but big in flavor too.

The menu offers game stews, like buffalo and wild boar served with cornbread. Burgers of the lamb and sirloin variety are featured, along with a selection of steaks, ribs and even venison meatloaf. This is indeed a carnival for carnivores.

My dinner companion ordered the “Venison Meatloaf ($18). I loved it. Tender as a pâté, covered in garlicky and sweet roasted cherry tomatoes and smothered with a beautiful rich brown sauce, this dish is one of those I will wake up thinking about in the middle of the night.

The “Sirloin Burger” ($14.95) was served on a nice bakery style bun with criss-cross fries. The patty was perfectly cooked and topped with smoked mozzarella and griddled bacon — so what’s not to like?

I also ordered a side of “Mac & Cheese” ($6) which was so worth the calories, carbs and cholesterol. Made with Wisconsin-smoked cheddar and gobs of cream, this stuff is heaven. I noticed that the chef from Café Chloe, who was seated near us, also had ordered the Mac & Cheese. If that’s not an endorsement, I don’t know what is.

The cocktail list is nearly as long as the dinner menu and features a large selection of fun, throw-back drinks such as a traditional rum Daiquiri, Pimm’s Cup and the Gin Fizz.

Finish off the meal with one of chef Andy Beardslee’s equally jaw-dropping desserts if you have the courage. Sadly, I had to pass. Too many appetizers.

— Terryl Gavre